Agritourismo and Volterra

Today we traveled to Parkavan-Papi winery and Agritorismo in Tuscany. The Pakravan-Papi property is located in northern Maremma, on the hills overlooking the sea. It originated on an old farm of olive groves and traditional vineyards, reclaimed from the surrounding forests by the Marchese Ginori.  Now it is entirely restored to it's original vocation, after it was bought by the Pakravan family some years later. The new owners first implanted a one hectare vineyard with surviving local clone of Sangiovese since 1988, the wine producing vocation of the farm developed as 5 hectares of vineyards of Sangiovese and Bordeaux varieties and were gradually implanted.

The old farm where the Azienda Agricola Pakravan-Papi stands was a land of wine, in a distant and forgotten Past.  The new changes brought about by the second world war obliterated it to the point of abandon, like most of the surrounding countryside.   The Mediterranean scrub-land took over.

It was a great challenge for the new owners to rediscover and restore its true vocation, making good use of modern technology without damaging tradition and the environment. The requisites for the culture of wine grapes were all present: a micro-climate of sunshine, the sea breeze, the countryside, the complexity and variety of high mineral soils and the gentle and well oriented slopes. A talented agronomist helped the owners to examine each aspect from the start. 

When we first arrived the owner told us that she and her husband purchased this property in the 1970's. They would go up on the weekends and camp with no running water or electricity.  It was a place to escape the city, but with a view that gives you peace. On our way to the Agritourismo I thought for one minute I was on one of the dirt roads of Cook Forest, located in Pennsylvania where our family owns a small modest cabin.  But when you arrive at the top, there is a very modern place next to the restoration of the old farmhouse. 

After leaving the Agritourismo, we arrive at a small town called Volterra.  A quaint little town where they mine Italian alabaster.  Oh my there were some of the most beautiful pieces I ever saw. It is amazing to me that more tourists haven't discovered it. (Even though in recent years it has attracted some of the vampire lovers out there who followed the famous Twilight Series).  Sometimes the quaint little towns are better then the bigger ones.

Walking through the streets I found a restaurant that was advertising Organic Food.  We also found another little quaint place that looked very much like mine, wine and pasta, olive oil for sale.  

Our meal started with olives of the region dressed in olive oil, parsley and hot pepper flakes; accompanied by a platter of cured meats made from pig all parts... some I tried and others I passed.... ahem!   There were some wonderful cheeses served with a fig and almond jam, a fresh hot pepper jelly made in house and local honey.  Next up was a farro salad even though some of the guests have been craving a green salad!   We enjoyed a local specialty known as Gnoudi.  One was made with spinach, one with zucca, and one with ricotta.  The Pappradelle was served in a hare sauce, and the tagliatelle had porcini mushrooms.

Before we left, there was some last minute alabaster shopping.  Our return to Rapallo, followed.  Until tomorrow, ciao tutti!