Farewell Tutti

Last day in Orsara di Puglia, Italia was spent enjoying the countryside, la campagna.  This is why we do it, the travel, the traditions, the work, the passion... all for the love of this countryside, the love of what has transpired here on this land, la terra... our earth.  From this soil, our nourishment has been given to us to sustain our lives and enjoy the bounty that is given to each of us.  Yes, this is what drives us to do what we do and why we wish to share this treasure with our friends, family and customers.

Before our last meal was enjoyed, we made our way into town one last time.  We discovered a real gem, an artist shop owned by none other than one of our cousins.  Such beautiful pieces there and such talent.  The artist spirit has always been alive in the family, on our father's side.  Our own baby sister has had many pieces judged in art shows.  In fact, there are a couple more cousins with this gift on the Fragassi side of our family.

We were able to say good byes to more family that came to visit.  Such a sweet time spent with family, relatives that know no bounds of time or space.  The heart beats when together in unison, for we share a heritage.

We send out a huge happy birthday, Boun compleano to our cousin Pascalina!  She is 45 years young.

Onto our last meal...

Antipasti
Handmade Salumi with Assorted Cheeses
Fresh Rabbit
Semi Freddo Tiramisu with the words, Happy American on it!   It was Peppe's way of saying goodbye to us and for enjoying time spent at this lovely place of his.

We have an early flight to catch leaving here at 2 am in order to board the coach that will drive us back to Roma.  We are bound for Toronto and expect to be home late in the evening around 9 pm.  We will be a bit groggy tomorrow... but we will be stateside.

As always enjoy the food, the family and the love shared between all!   Ciao Ciao! 

Crushing of the Grapes!

Only a couple more days and we will be home, leaving this beautiful countryside behind... it was with great pleasure we went out into the field to pick the first round of grape harvest.  The harvest is running early this year and the grapes were at the perfect sugar content being 22% for a nice reserva.  No time like the present and picking we went. 

After bringing in our harvest, we helped to prepare the tanks, flushing them out and washing of the grapes.  It was then time to crush and as much as the images of I Love Lucy may come to mind with their skirts between their legs, we did not get our feet into the mix!  

We spent most of our day with the grapes and getting the experience form the vine to the tank.  Truly makes you appreciate wine from a whole new perspective.  When we retired for the day, you could smell the beginning stages of the fermentation process.  It was quite lovely actually.

However, before retiring, we did sample some of the fabulous treats Peppe Zullo and his team prepared for an onsite wedding.  The place in which we stay is a full service cooking school, vineyard, reception hall, gardens etc.  He does it all with his esteemed staff by his side. 

When passion and pleasure come together it is heaven, truly.  This is what Peppe has created here for all who come to Orsara, at the base of the mountain. 

We journeyed up to the town for a seafood lunch, all the treats, Frutta di Mari, Octopus, Calamari, baby Red Snapper, and more.  It was wonderful to sample the freshness of the sea. 

As with every journey into town, it seems we happen upon another relative.  Again, for these moments to happen so effortlessly, it does make us remember what family means more and more... it is coming home and being loved.  Such warmth and happiness is found when we embrace. 

So one more day and we make our journey back home... for now, ciao ciao. 

Basilicata or Lucania?

All good intentions... as they say, have to be set aside when one encounters a challenge... say a flat tire?  We were all set to leave bright and early which we did.  Then into our journey for Basilicata, we have a flat tire, which set us back a couple of hours for our day's activities.  But to add to our appreciation of life and wonder, we enjoyed beautiful scenery as this part of Italy truly is breathtaking.

Basilicata is the name most are familiar with when speaking of this region.  A lesser known name is Lucania, but both names refer to the same region. 

The city is an ancient wonder and the ancient was our focus for the day.  We spent our afternoon being educated on the ways of ancient food and preparation from our esteemed chef Federico Valicenti.  His is a passion about the history of food and how to preserve its simplicity.    He has researched the gastronomy of the area and transfers this history into unique recipes that highlight this ancient connection from the fruits of the land.  He tells a timeless tale through his food and we were all to willing to be told a story. 

Each dish took us back in time.  Red peppers played a staring role in this tale, even being used a paprika, which we are more familiar with in Hungarian cooking.  Here is a sampling to ignite the imagination:

Pecorino Cheese Sauce
Various Salumi all handmade
Porcini Mushroom Bruschetta
Bread Bowl Vessels filled with onion, grilled peppers and herbs
Long Pasta made from whole grains to include barley, chickpea flours as well
Tomato Pasta with ricotta salata and vinegar sauce
Pork with raisins, wine, juniper berries and red onion
Leg of Lamb done the way it was on the wedding night*

*The leg of lamb traditionally was for the spouse and the idea was that you would eat your way up the leg... food is after all very sensual experience, isn't it? 

We enjoyed every dish, every story out on the veranda overlooking the city and surrounding countryside.  We took a journey to our ancient past and loved every bite along the way.

While we were there, a local journalist was interviewing some people.  Peppe Zullo was interviewed along with Carmella and Uncle Ralph!  We are not certain where this will air, but it was fun to be part of this story.

We finally returned with full bellies and an appreciation for our ancient past.  A quiet, calm evening sharing insights, cheese and wine await.

Ciao ciao.  

Toast to Orsara!

Well, it was a fun filled day with tours, angels and libations!  

As the growing season is running a little ahead of schedule over here, by two weeks, we were able to help the winery start their preparations for the pressing of the grapes.  In order to fully appreciate the process, we went on an extensive tour, learning about the history, process and production.  After the tour we helped to ready the tanks that will hold the prized vintages to come.  This winery is an award winning winery, one of the top cellars in Italy to be exact.  After our hard labor, we were able to sample some of the wines and a little of the Sambuca on site as well.  To be part of this process was actually quite special  and one we will not forget. 

We were able to also tour the entire farm, looking at the animals, the vegetable beds the fields... all very impressive.  It certainly makes us think of our own childhood as we always enjoyed a garden in the back yard.  It was part of who we are to grow our own food, to work with la terra, the earth in this manner.  When we are in the dirt, we are close to nature, working with the soil and we understand this connection we have to our food.  It is through this process where true nourishment comes for the body and soul.  Seeing this countryside so full of  life brings our spirit closer to the land. 

For lunch we ventured into town and enjoyed a lovely meal at the restaurant Medina.  We have been here before and it so nice to return.  As we finished our lunch we were met with a lovely tour guide, who took us around the city of Orsara.  For those of us who have not been before, this was a real treat to see the town in this manner.  For our family members it was especially wonderful, because the stories were heard growing up about our grandparents walking these streets came alive.  If you have never been to the land where your ancestors are from it is highly recommended to put these pieces of your past together. 

To end the tour, we went to the Grotto of Saint Michael the Archangel.  This is the patron Saint of Orsara which is the reason why so many of the men are names Michael from this town, including our own brother. 

Tours, Wines, and Angels... how did you spend your day? 

Working with Flour

After another lovely breakfast, we started our day learning about flour.  Flour is much more than the all purpose white stuff we maybe have tucked into our cabinets, mostly pulled out during the holidays to make a sweet treat or festive recipe handed down through the generations.  It is one of the building blocks and staples throughout all cultures used to make sweets and savory items.  Depending on how you harvest, grind and process, it will be useful in a variety of ways.

Today we worked with burnt flour, this is a specialty here in Puglia and at Peppe Zullo.  They take the burnt wheat and process it fresh to use in pasta dishes.  This tradition dates back to the 18th century or earlier.  It comes from the time when the after the wheat was harvested and sent to the mills, the remaining straw-fields were burnt down.  The poor and needy discovered they could harvest some of the burnt wheat grains to take home and process into flour.  The color of the sfoglia (the starter base of pasta) made with this burnt flour is dark grey.  The flour is called, farina brucciato and the color is a brownish gray color, but the flavor is mild, nutty and a bit smokey.  If you haven't tried it, call up the restaurant and see if Carmella has some on hand.  It is truly a treat to taste. 

Because Peppe likes to get us into the action, the group was able to work with this flour and we made several different pasta shapes to include orecchiette, fusilli, and cicadelle, which is one of our family favorites.   
Of course each pasta was cooked and prepared with items harvested on the grounds.  We enjoyed fresh tomato and celery greens, cannelini beans and some new beans, garbanzos, olive oil..... it was all so delicious. 

The Shepard who works for Peppe stopped by and started a conversation with our Momma and her brother, Uncle Ralph.  The Shepard was delighted to learn that our family is Sciarappa and Tiso!  He remembered many of the relatives and all three enjoyed a wonderful talk about the memories of these families.   What a treat for both our mother and uncle to have this talk and see the land in which their ancestors came still holds stories of their lineage. 

For dinner, we went back into Orsara for wood oven pizza.  Dinner is typically a lighter meal as were lunch is the largest meal.  So in the evening a pizza with friends is a common thing to enjoy.  Each pizza was perfectly thin, cooked quickly in the hot oven and served with a variety of toppings.  Needless to say, our bellies are very happy being here and enjoying the harvest goodies of the land.  From the flour as the building block to the topping which are varied and plentiful.

Ciao, ciao!